Tourist Trap and onto the Camino Invierno : Oseira Monastery to Lalin

 “A tourist has new experiences, but remains the same person. 
A pilgrim experiences new places and is transformed by them.”
Christine Valters Paintner, The Soul of a Pilgrim

Camino Sanabrés Stage 12 / Via de la Plata Stage 36

Today began around 5:00 AM when someone's alarm went off in the albergue.  It went off again a couple of minutes later, and this was followed by an immense amount of vigorous and frantic activity as things were packed into crinkly plastic bags, ziplocks were opened and resealed, items were reorganized, and dropped on the floor with thumps and clatters that seemed to echo along the concrete floor. Within about 15 minutes, almost everyone had given up on sleep and was quietly getting up and leaving the dormitory.  Far too early in the morning, our next day on the Camino Sanabrés had begun.  I don’t deny that we are both a little sad at the prospect of leaving such a peaceful place as Oseira Monastery has been. This valley is peaceful, and the albergue is like a refuge.

Return to the Camino

We made a breakfast of instant coffee and rather stale bread, and jam and then headed off into the darkness.  We passed through the monastery gates and immediately began a very steep climb up to a mirador, where we had a lovely view down onto the monastery.  It was very softly lit up, glowing gently in the darkness like a reminder of all the things that withstand the test of time.

After a brief pause, we continued up the steep, rocky, uneven road.  Even in the darkness, we could see the ruts worn into the stones by the wagons of old.  This path may have begun in Roman times and must have been used when the monastery was at its height of activity.  Now it is walked by pilgrims, some of whom begin their stages in the darkness of early morning.

We continued up the hill, surrounded on both sides by dense hedgerows. They were alive with birdsong, and in the light of our headlamps we could see two bats skimming back and forth above the trail, hunting for insects.  Every now and again, we would switch off our lights and enjoy the warm darkness.  It was a cloudy morning without stars, but this meant that incredible beauty was in store for us later in the morning.

Galician Sunrise

Eventually, the skies grew brighter and we could see the lush green hills of Galicia spreading out around us.  Hay fields, meadows, and pastures were divided off by fieldstone walls and messy green hedges that were alive with birds.  The lights of scattered farmhouses dotted the hills around us, and horses and cows stood quietly in some of the pastures, giving the air a strong smell of cattle and fresh dung.  The call of a rooster rang out across the field, joined by the distant barking of a dog.  The world was beginning to wake up.

As it got lighter, we realized there was a rather ominous storm cloud hanging low in the sky behind us.  However, it never quite caught up with us, and around 7:00 AM, the magic began.  We began to notice banks of fog creeping over the tops of nearby hills, sending long soft white tendrils down into the forested valleys around us.  The climb uphill on the winding pathway was hard, but the foggy morning made it magical!  As a result, we took thousands of pictures. The land undulated steadily, dotted with picturesque hamlets, woods, pastures, and stretches of cobblestone paths.

The trail was bordered with moss-covered stone walls, and around us, the agricultural landscape was scattered with lichen-covered trees and large gorse bushes. We passed through a number of small communities, all quiet and peaceful. Horarios were now plentiful, and in one town, we noticed a large historic stone marking the area.

As we continued to climb up to Castro-Dozon, we found ourselves slowly being enveloped in a world of mist and mystery.

The next few hours were magical.  A thick layer of fog enveloped the landscape, isolating us in a small bubble where much of the colour had been drained from the landscape beyond the lush green of the trailside grasses. 

Lone trees appeared like sentinels out of the mist. The path unfolded one step at a time, revealing rolling pastures and intriguing hedgerows only at the last minute.  In quaint villages, we would often be met with large packs of friends' dogs – all wanting to sniff the smelly pilgrims who they welcomed with warm noses and gentle licks. 

O Castro de Dozon

Walking into Casto-Dozon, we noticed several familiar pilgrims stepping into the first café to take a break and get something to eat.  Joining them, we too stepped into the small bar in the hopes of enjoying a café on leche.  Rather than getting breakfast, what ensued at Café Fraga became a test of patience and an exercise in futility...at least for pilgrims.  

Placing our backpacks at the door, Sean got us seats as I stepped up to the bar.  Around us were five or six other pilgrims.  The two American gentlemen immediately warned that they had already been waiting 35 minutes for two coffees and two orders of toast, with nothing as of yet to show for their orders. The petite French pilgrim quipped that perhaps the señora was roasting the beans and harvesting the wheat for the bread.   She had also apparently ordered almost an hour ago and had yet to receive anything either. 

Meanwhile, a Dutch pilgrim in the corner – the only one of us with a cup of coffee – warned that the señora was ill-mannered and that the prices for pilgrims seemed to inflate with each order.   He went on to tell us that he had spent the evening camping outside of town and that she had similarly treated pilgrims poorly last night during dinner.

Half an hour later, the Americans each received their café con leche and one piece of bread (to be shared between them?).   In the meantime, the bar had begun to fill with locals, each of whom promptly placed their orders and promptly received what they requested.  Meanwhile, neither I nor two other pilgrims were yet able to place an order as the Spanish bartender had seemingly perfected ignoring hikers.  

Still standing at the bar, I turned to Sean to ask what to do and for advice on how to get the server’s attention.  Hearing my comment, a German couple who regularly taxied between stages and who had just walked in began lecturing everyone to slow down and “be calm”.  He continued his diatribe while rubbing his large stomach as the bartender returned.  When he spotted her, he smugly raised his hand, demanding attention as if it were owed. But when she ignored him as well, he leapt up and began pounding the bar like a medieval lord demanding his feast.  So much for "slow down and be calm". Seeing that even this was not getting a result and recognizing that it was taking 20-40 minutes to receive a coffee once ordered, we decided it was simply time to walk on. 

We would later hear from several other pilgrims that many of them were there for over an hour simply to get their café con leche, and that only the American gentlemen would get anything to eat despite all of them ordering food. Some places just don’t work out.  

It was now 11 AM as we continued down the street past the local church, the Igrexa de San Salvador de la O.  The holy site looked nice, but we had little interest in exploring or staying in this town and so walked on along a roadway for a brief period before weaving into the undulating countryside on a forested track. 

Needless to say, we were glad to be out of Castro-Dozon and be back in nature. From here, the Camino climbed a short hill to an industrial area and paved road, which, thankfully, soon led to a forest once again.   

Unfortunately, much of what followed next was a long stretch on the side of the N-525 roadway.  

Backpack Repairs

Walking on, we soon arrived in a small community called Puxallos. Outside the Ermita de San Roque, a series of picnic tables invited a break, so we decided to sit and eat some of the snacks we were carrying. As I struggled to remove my backpack and dig out treats, I suddenly heard Sean swear. Looking up, I saw what had caused it - the shoulder strap on his backpack was half ripped off.

The only option was to empty the pack and see if we could repair it. Thankfully, the picnic table provided the perfect workspace. 

Now emptied, I examined Sean’s backpack.  The left strap had ripped and broken away, very much like the wear we had seen last year in the UK while hiking the Wainwright Coast to Coast national trail and West Highland Way, where I spent almost every night repairing it. Clearly, the backpack was no longer as strong as it once had been, having endured the Bruce Trail, the East Coast Trail, the six-year trek across Canada’s 28,000 km on the Trans Canada Trail, and several Camino pilgrimages. It might, sadly, soon be time to invest in new gear.

While we were working, the small French lady caught up with us and offered some food, having seen us leave the café earlier. She seemed genuinely upset that we had continued on without eating. We thanked her, and she continued on the short distance into Botos, where she was taking a taxi to Lalín, having been unable to find accommodations along the Camino for today’s stage. 

Half an hour later, the backpack was patched as best as was possible on the trail, and we refilled it with Sean’s gear to continue on.  

Countryside Tracks

The Camino soon led us back into the countryside along a dirt trail lined with tall conifer trees, their scent sharp in the heat of the day. The path descended toward a bridge that carried us across the Autopista, before curving once more into shaded woodland. The relief of walking under the forest canopy could not be overstated.  The afternoon temperatures had begun to climb again, and every patch of shade felt like a gift.

Emerging from the trees, we entered the town of Poneoufe, beyond which the Camino climbed steadily along an ancient Roman road through a mossy forest. The stones beneath our feet, slick with age, carried echoes of countless travellers who had come this way before. The climb gave way to a more peaceful paved lane, guiding us into the small community of A Xesta. At the center of town stood a simple but beautiful chapel, a pilgrim fountain, and even Camino-inspired artwork.  Each were small touches that made the place feel welcoming and alive with the spirit of the Way.

At one point along this stretch, we found trail markers tucked beneath the roadway indicating that Santiago was now only 66 km away, while another wooden sign only shortly beyond claimed the distance was closer to 57 km. The contradiction made us smile.  After hundreds of kilometres, what were a few more or less? What mattered was that we were closing in.

Botos (Estation de Lalin)

By 1 PM, we walked into Botos (Estación de Lalin) along a paved roadway.  Here, a playground mural dedicated to pilgrims caught our attention and added a cheerful touch to the town.  Unfortunately, we soon discovered that the albergue was closed, and that the only other place with rooms, A Taberna de Vento, was sold out.  

The owner of one hotel, which was closed for the day, directed us to a bar only 50 meters away if we wanted something to eat or drink.  Stepping in, we were served…begrudgingly.  Here, the two American gentlemen soon also walked in, remarking, “So you finally got your coffee for the day”.  Here, they informed us that we were wise to walk out of Castro-Dozon, as the bar service never got any better.  

As it turns out, Botos is the end of their stage for the day, and having only had the single piece of bread in Castro-Dozon, they sought to order lunch but were told that all they could have was the menú del día, priced at 28 euros per person.  Shocked, they nonetheless ordered.

It is clear that prices on the Camino continue to rise dramatically as we get closer to Santiago.

Camino Decisions 

We spent our time in Botos trying to figure out where to go in the afternoon.  As usual, on the Via de la Plata and the Camino Sanabrés, we have the familiar choice between a short option or a long option.  And even this afternoon’s choices mirrored that reality.

We could trek to A Laxe, about 5-6 km away, or continue on to Silleta, roughly 15 km ahead.  The albergue in A Laxe listed bunks at 40 euros each, while Silleta offered bunks for 50 euros and hotels for over 100 euros. Since we would be arriving in Santiago de Compostela tomorrow regardless, much of our decision would come down to cost.

In the end, we decided to walk on and see what was available in A Laxe.

Santiago Realities

Ironically, while sitting in Botos trying to figure out our next move, another pilgrim we had seen repeatedly since leaving Seville over a month ago shared that his wife was already 10 km ahead. She had continued on after he injured his ankle and had called him to tell him to take a taxi forward to meet her. According to her, all that lay ahead was road walking, tourist traps, and exorbitant costs for pilgrims. She did not want to spend her final three days paying 100 euros a night for bunks in a city they had visited several times. Instead, they planned to taxi the final 50 km into Santiago to end their pilgrimage.

He added that this Via de la Plata and Camino Sanabrés might be their last Camino, feeling that “it has all changed and the soul of it is gone over the past twenty years.” He was particularly upset by what he described as the opportunistic behaviour of some albergue and bar owners, saying they were “little more than bandits on the trail, charging more and more essentially stealing from everyone, and laughing while doing it.” He noted how many town residents, bar operators, and accommodation hosts spoke openly, often in front of customers, about how much they disliked pilgrims. For him and his wife, who understood Spanish, the last month had been filled with overheard rude conversations, growing costs, and a sense of emerging hostility along the Ways of St. James.

Another pilgrim sitting nearby commented that he had reserved a bunk in Santiago for two nights, only to find it cost over 200 Euros. A quick online check confirmed that the bunks we had paid 20 Euros for on the Camino Francés in 2016 would now cost 140 Euros per person per night. This year, one of the Camino’s new challenges was no longer wondering if accommodations existed in Santiago, but rather which ones were affordable to reserve.

It was a reminder of the tension between the Camino’s enduring spirit and the pressures of modern tourism. While the landscapes, forests, and quiet hamlets still offered the meditative, transformative experience pilgrims seek, the trail is also subject to rising costs, commercialization, and attitudes that can feel alienating. Even as the Camino continues to inspire, it requires resilience - not just for the miles walked, but for navigating the changing culture that now surrounds the journey.

We said our goodbyes and parted ways, watching as yet another Seville pilgrim left the trail, with only 52 km remaining to Santiago. 

Crossroads on the Way

Continuing on, the Camino out of Botos wove beside a roadway into a green space where the trail was thankfully compacted and dry.  This made for easy walking on a compact and dry track, which had very little mud for us to contend with. 

Not long after we arrived at a crossroads, there were signs for the Camino indicating an alternative route into Lalín as the recommended destination. The signs noted that A Laxe had few reliable amenities, suggesting different routes into Lalín instead.

Not wanting to leave the Camino route, and not particularly drawn to larger cities as destinations, we continued following the yellow arrows toward A Laxe. The paved trail eventually led us through a lush, forested surroundings before turning into a narrow dirt track that ran alongside the regional highway. Between us and the busy road, a chain-link fence displayed artistically woven wooden crosses made from sticks, a quiet and unexpected reminder of the Camino’s enduring symbolism.

A Laxe and the Camino de Invierno

A little after 2:30 PM, we walked into A Laxe along a paved road, only to find the albergue locked, lights off, and the local Restaurante María José closed. A bartender outside explained that the albergue was closed for a band practice in town.

Stepping off the road to escape the heat, we made reservations at the closest place in Lalín. Ironically, it was in this city that we would find the cheapest accommodations yet on the Via de la Plata and Camino Sanabrés. Adding to the irony, the nearest hotel was listed as a resort spa. In the end, the Hotel Spa Norat Torre do Beza cost us only 40 Euros for the night.  Adding insult to injury,  this resort was also the cheapest thing that we could find or reserve between here and Santiago de Compostela 

Paying for our room, we used Google Maps and found a safe off-road route that would take us from A Laxe into Lalin without walking down the busy major highway 

With reservations made, for the first time in 16 Camino pilgrimages, we walked backwards up another Camino that we have never trekked, the Camino de Invierno, which joins with the Camino Sanabrés in A Laxe.   Our Googled path took us through a forest, down a sandy track under the highway, and then along an industrial section and series of car dealerships. 

It was a reminder of the unpredictable nature of the Camino. Even on familiar routes, accommodations, hours, and availability can change without warning, forcing pilgrims to improvise. Moments of irony, like finding the cheapest room in a spa, underscored that the journey is as much about navigating logistics and adapting to circumstances as it is about walking the trail itself.

Resort Spa in Lalin 

By 4 p.m., we had arrived, checked in, and were sitting at the bar. Though the cold beer was welcome, it was the simple act of sitting down that felt truly wonderful!

While relaxing, two more pilgrims, that we had yet to meet, walked in and joined us.  According to them, they had walked two cities onward but had been forced to taxi back because accommodations ahead were either full or far too expensive. As a result, it was cheaper for them to walk on, taxi both ways, and stay in a hotel than to pay the costs demanded at the end of their stage.  

As the conversation continued, they admitted that the situation was leading them to struggle as to how to approach their final two days on the Camino.  As of now, their plan was to walk to Santiago tomorrow and take transit back to Lalín and the hotel spa for reasonably priced accommodations. It seems that, increasingly, pilgrims can no longer afford a night in Santiago after completing the Camino - a sobering reflection on how costs have altered the experience of the final stages.

CaminoWays Tour Group

Still chatting away, it wasn’t long before other hikers from a CaminoWays tour walked in. They had been due to stay in A Laxe, but the albergue was unexpectedly closed, and Restaurante María José, where they had dinner reservations, was closed for a private event. As a result, they had reached out to CaminoWays, who texted them new reservations and a map. Following these instructions, the group had walked along the side of the busy highway to reach this hotel.

One of their group planned to head back out to find a nicer way back to the Camino Sanabrés the next morning, so we showed her how a service road and a small trail under the highway connected back to A Laxe. As she set off, the others sat down for a pint and to chat. They remarked that walking was a great adventure, but lamented not being able to have tea every hour.

Despite having their luggage transported and using taxis to bypass “the unfriendly bits” and long road sections, even lightening their loads did not guarantee more amenities. Still, they agreed there was “no point fretting it,” though they added "it would be nice if they developed some amenities or kept something open.”  Regardless, they thought it was a great adventure and were making plans for reaching Santiago at the end of their five-day pilgrimage.  

All we could think during their commentary was that this is how almost every stage for the past 30-40 days had been.  What had become a daily endurance test for us was for them a grand journey.  Perspective, as always, is everything.

Perspectives and Plans

With everything else closed, we had dinner in the hotel restaurant. Sitting there, watching the TV, we noted that in Cádiz, our starting point for the Via Augusta, it was now 40 degrees. At the same time, Seville, the starting point for the Via de la Plata, was experiencing a severe hailstorm, while much of the rest of Spain was dealing with heavy rain and flooding.

Despite the challenges we have faced on this trek, tonight we were standing in the only area without bad weather.  There is no way that we could not be grateful for the positives and blessings that life on the Camino continues to offer.  At the moment, we had an inexpensive room with beds, no bedbugs, a toilet, toilet paper, and running water.  These were all simple comforts that we had not enjoyed together for some time, especially with rising costs along the way.

Back in our room, I digitally pre-registered for our Compostela, as the office now receives 2,500–2,900 people per day and admits that they cannot accommodate everyone.

Looking ahead to our final two stages, we mapped out the remaining options. They can be broken down into either 16 km and 34 km, or 42 km and 8 km. Regardless of the choice, we would arrive in Santiago before continuing on along the Camino Finisterre, bringing our coast-to-coast trek across Spain to its conclusion. 

See you on the Way!