Beginning the Camino Sanabrés: Granja de la Moreruela to Tabara

 “A new path always feels uncertain...at first...”

Beginning the Camino Sanabrés 

Camino Sanabrés  Stage 1 / Via de la Plata Stage 25

In some ways, it felt like our walk along the Camino Sanabrés began in the middle of a sentence.  The Camino Sanabrés is the final, wilder branch of the Via de la Plata, and is a route that winds from the plains of Castile through the green mountains of Galicia, ending at Santiago de Compostela. It is in every way a new Camino route onto itself, but it is also for us, very much a mid-hike and mid-day extension of the Via de la Plata.

It was around 10 AM when we took our first steps down this unique pilgrimage route, but we had already been walking for a couple of hours.  Our day had begun in Riego del Camino, and it was Day 25 of our walk north on the Via de la Plata from Seville. However, this journey to Santiago de Compostela had actually begun even earlier, when almost by accident we found ourselves walking from Cadiz to Seville on the Via Augusta - but that is another story.  

Our trek up to this point had felt more challenging than any Camino route we've previously walked, with long stages and very few services, the majority of which could be charitably described as 'unreliable' at best.   At this point, we were worn down by miles of muddy tracks, day after day of unpredictable closures, and endless logistical struggles.  As a result, we had put off deciding whether to continue north on the Via de la Plata to Astorga, after which point we knew finding food and accommodations would become simpler, or whether to divert onto the Camino Sanabrés.  In the end, with hope in our hearts but serious doubts in our minds, we decided to have faith in the Camino journey and turn west in Granja de la Moreruela toward Santiago de Compostela.  Did we make the right decision?  Only time would tell.

From here, we have anywhere from 12-14 more stages and days to hike to the Cathedral in Santiago.

Pilgrimage of Faith on the Sanabrian Way 

The morning had dawned sunny and cool, and it had begun with the exceptional kindness of Paco, the Hospitalero in the albergue we stayed in, who had walked with us to the edge of Riego del Camino, offering us words of encouragement in Spanish.  As a gorgeous sunrise had turned the fields to gold, we spotted a silver fox dashing across the hills - heading towards the west.  We'd taken a break in a truck stop on the highway where a kind and overworked server had made us toast and jam for breakfast, even though it wasn't on the menu.  Then we'd been joined by a group of fellow pilgrims who told us the Hospitaleros where they stayed last night indicated that services along the Camino Sanabrés would become more plentiful, and things should start to look up.  As we approached Granja de Moreruel, the pink and gold sky above was streaked with contrails from planes flying by overhead - all heading west.  It felt like the universe was bludgeoning us with not-so-subtle signs.  

Granja de la Moreruela

So, we stood in front of the sign marking the split between the Via de la Plata and the Camino Sanabrés and somehow, after the events of this morning, it felt right to take what we believe is the more difficult option.  We turned towards the west, following the arrow for Ourense and the path to Santiago.  For better or worse, the decision had been made, and we were moving forward once again. 

Walking out of Granja, we followed a wide track, crossed under two blue highway bridges and followed the red dirt track into the countryside. Almost immediately after departing Granja on the Sanabrés, the landscape changed from the flat expanses of the Via de la Plata and meseta that we have been hiking through since Zamora into rolling hills and undulating terrain and forests.

We followed a gorgeous, bright red track bordered by dark green, shiny Gum Rock-Rose bushes, with their clean white and sunny yellow blossoms. We were clearly in a mining region, and passed several signs and a gravel pit to attest to the fact.  One of the strange things in this section was that the top layer of bright reddish soil, about 6-8 ft of it in some places, seemed to have been removed from large areas of the landscape.  We couldn't imagine what was being mined.

We soon passed a small stone picnic table that was tucked into a stand of trees in the shade, a real rarity so far on this trail.  Although we didn't need to take a break at this point, the very existence of this lovely pilgrim rest area filled us with optimism that things really might be getting easier. 

We also discovered that we were following a new style of trail signs, which were designed especially for the Sanabrés.  They consisted of unsculpted slabs of rock with an arrow, stars, and a gourd carved onto them in such a way that each unique design fit the natural shape of the stone.  It felt good to see some signs of progress or change, and the new energy spurred us up and over the next set of rolling hills.

Changing Landscapes

Soon we found ourselves walking through a beautiful meadow filled with yellow and white wildflowers. It was a dehesa, with small trees scattered throughout, which was very pretty and felt exceptionally peaceful. 

Beyond the meadow, we could see forested hills and mountains rising up against the blue sky. Some of the ridges were lined with rows of tall white wind turbines, although in the still warm air, none of them were turning.

As we progressed, the scenery seemed to get better and better.  We found ourselves descending steeply down into a river valley, the rocky slopes of the forested valley wall plunging straight down into the blue waters of the Esle River.  Our track brought us out to a narrow, curving highway, and we had a short and somewhat unnerving walk along it. 

There was a sheer drop down to the water below on one side of the road, with only a 12-inch high retaining wall to protect us, and a rocky cliff rising straight up on the other.  The body of a small brown and grey Ladder Snake on the side of the road was another striking reminder of the dangers of this stretch.  We were very grateful there was no traffic!

Alternative Options 

We crossed the Esla River on a magnificent bridge with tall brick arches. It was extremely narrow and high, and once again, we were very pleased to get across with no cars or trucks passing at the same time. As we stepped off the bridge, a line of massive trucks came through.  

At the far side of the bridge, we came to another decision point.  A narrow footpath led steeply down along the cliff side, while the road ahead presented an option more suitable for bicycles.  With our big packs and tired legs, we didn't feel the rock scrambling and steep slope was a safe option for us this morning, so while we rarely choose a road route over a natural path, in this case, we did.

The 2 km road walk down the paved highway wasn't too bad, though it was exposed and hot to travel along.  After the first 100 m, we had a wide, flat shoulder, and there was almost no traffic.  The road snaked up and up along forested slopes before turning and dropping steeply down into the open agricultural fields once again.  Around 40 minutes later, we reconnected with the dirt track of the main Camino once again and found ourselves continuing on through a mix of pastures, hay fields, and slightly more wild patches of treed land.

By this point, the sun was shining brightly, and the heat was rising to a somewhat uncomfortable level for us.  We walked past an aromatic pine plantation, but sadly, it cast no shade on the trail at all.  Finally, we found a lovely tree and took a short break beneath its overhanging branches, only to discover a tick climbing up Sean's leg.  That put an end to the rest stop, and we set off back along the track.

Straight Track 

Unusually, the next few kilometres to Faramontanos de Tabara were down a ruler straight track.  Almost all the roads and country lanes in southern Spain that we've been following since leaving Cadiz have meandered slightly back and forth, but this looked like a rail trail. 

It cut through many small fields, and as we approached the town, we were passed by several combines and tractors.  Farmers were out ploughing their fields and vegetable plots, and there were bags of seeds piled up along the edge of a few fields, ready for planting.

Faramontanos de Tabara

When we entered Faramontanos, it looked like a nice town, with a mix of modern homes and buildings and walls made of wattle and dub.  We were also intrigued to see a long line of wine cellars, their wooden doors set into the sides of the grassy hill.  

We got a little off track as we crossed the town, but managed to find an open bar, which was perfect.  Soon we were sitting in the shade outside with two icy cold Aquarius and a bag of our favourite chips - a flavour called Campesinas, which is unavailable in Canada.  It was a lovely break, and did much to boost our spirits.

As we sat there, we saw most of the other pilgrims we'd shared breakfast with in the truck stop this morning walk past.  A few looked as if they would have liked a break themselves, but they seemed to be in too much of a hurry.  A reflection of the “race for the bunks” we, and other pilgrims, have daily endured for the past month.    A few minutes later, we stood up, getting ready to hoist our packs and head off.  We had seen a very elderly lady totter by a few minutes previously, and as we got ready, her husband, an elderly gentleman himself, hobbled up and began explaining to us how to find the Camino.

He then led us through the tall grass of an empty lot between derelict buildings and down another winding street until he could point us in the right direction.  It was the second time today we'd been guided back to The Way by a kind and generous stranger.  We were both grateful and a little puzzled by the repeated kindness.  Maybe we look as lost as we feel out here.

Continuing along the Camino

Though the town of Tábara lay barely five kilometres away by road, the Camino chose its own wandering course, stretching nearly eight kilometres as it carried us out into the middle of open, sun-baked fields, zigzagging back toward the highway, and skirting a local train line.

On the horizon, the sleek ribbon of the rapid train line cut across the landscape, while the surrounding hills were crowned with long rows of wind turbines. Along the way, we began to notice Camino markers that felt almost Galician in style, complete with precise distance counts down to the decimal.  As such, we were repeatedly informed that we were still in the 340-kilometre range of our journey to Santiago.

The final 5 km to Tabara were unpleasantly hot and bright. I must confess I didn't look around too much, simply trying to follow the trail through the exposed fields to reach the next available patch of shade.  It was a peaceful and quiet, beautiful agricultural landscape, but I was ready to be finished for the day quite a few kilometres before the trail was ready to be finished with me.

Tabara

Finally, we came to the edge of Tabara, the interesting brick tower of the tiny San Salvador de Tabara Monastery, greeting us at the edge of town.  Unusually, the tower was a large square shape, with many small arched windows on several levels surrounding the top, giving it a Mujedar flavour.

About an hour later, we arrived in Tábara, a town that in the Middle Ages was home to a powerful monastery where some 600 monks and nuns once lived. It was here that the renowned Beato de Tábara was created, a manuscript whose richly detailed illustrations are still considered among Spain’s finest medieval works. Today, the town welcomes pilgrims with a beautiful central square, shaded by a green park, and two prominent churches that anchor the community.

The main square was just across the street, and it had a beautiful rose arbour, a kids' playground, a tall statue, and a collection of benches in the middle. We made our way around it to the albergue, checked in, and then sat outside on the covered patio with a cold beer to relax before doing our chores. 

Slowly, a familiar group of pilgrims gathered on the terrace, exchanging stories and opinions about the walk.  To our delight, Flor and Edouard, whom we haven't seen in a few days, also arrived and checked in!

After doing our chores, we headed to the Carrefour Express, hoping to stock up on bread, jam, instant coffee, and some snacks for the coming days.  It looks like we will be heading through another series of small villages for the next few stages, where food options may well be scarce.  It was a huge relief to find that the grocery store did exist, was well stocked, and was actually open!

Exploring Tabara

By late afternoon, we settled on a simple dinner of bread, cheese, tomatoes, and guacamole before setting out again to explore the rest of Tábara. Our first destination was the Church of La Asunción, a Romanesque creation built on the site of the town’s historic monastery. As so often along this trail, the doors were closed, and we were left to admire the stonework from outside. 

Wandering through the quiet streets, we noticed signs of livable homes for sale at prices as low as 23,000 Euros - a striking contrast to Canadian cities, where modest 1,000-square-foot condos now routinely demand $500,000 to $700,000. Seeing this difference in cost alongside the possibility of living in a peaceful Spanish town, one can definitely appreciate why so many Canadians, Americans, and British people are moving to Spain. 

Tábara itself is undeniably pretty, with its shady park and historic charm, but the absence of people lent it a slightly hollow air. Eventually, we returned to the patio outside our accommodations, where we closed the evening with a final beer and the ritual of writing the day’s journal.

Today we trekked 38 km from Riego del Camino to Granja, concluding the Via de la Plata to Tabara on the Camino Sanabrés and have approximately 340 km remaining to get to Santiago de Compostela.  More important than these details today is the fact that today was a good day, filled with many encouraging signs that give us hope for the coming days, but we are both tired and ready for bed. 

Tonight, we are grateful for having an easier day on the Way of St. James than we have had for some time.  While today saw us begin the Camino Sanabrés, it also brought our trek on the Via de la Plata to an end – a firm reminder that the conclusion of one journey is merely the beginning of a new moment.

See you on the Way!