Posts

Reflections from the Way: Via de la Plata & Camino Sanabrés

Image
  “Don't tell me how educated you are, tell me how much you have travelled .” Muhammed, The Koran Lessons from the Via de la Plata and Camino Sanabrés    The Via de la Plata and Camino Sanabrés together form Spain’s longest pilgrimage route, stretching from Seville to Santiago de Compostela along ancient Roman roads.  In total, the Via de la Plata took us 25 stages to complete, plus three rest days in the cities of Merida, Salamanca, and Zamora.  Beyond which the Camino Sanabres took us 14 stages to trek from Granja de Moreruela to Santiago de Compostela.  Meaning that over the course of these trails, we had hiked for 38 days from Seville to Santiago. This, of course, does not include the 9 days we walked on the Via Augusta beforehand. Our walk along these trails was more than a logistical challenge and physical crossing of Spain – it entailed a slow unfolding of landscapes, encounters, and lessons that remain long after the journey’s end. From Andalusia...

Via de la Plata and Sanabres: Long Distance Hike or Spiritual Pilgrimage?

Image
  “…not all who wonder or wander are lost…” Bear McCreary, This Wandering Day Camino Questions, Pilgrimage Reflections One question followed us all the way along the Via de la Plata and the Camino Sanabrés: Is this a pilgrimage or a long-distance hike? On a long-distance hike, you anticipate being self-sufficient and finding your own way. Trail blazes may guide you, and there are often opportunities to resupply, but the rhythm is largely individual. The hiker carries the responsibility of food, shelter, and safety as an essential part of the journey lies in that independence. A pilgrimage, on the other hand, carries a different set of expectations. Along routes like the Camino Francés , one anticipates clear route markers, regular intervals of villages or cafés where food and water can be found, and the assurance that at the end of each stage, there will be some kind of lodging. To borrow the familiar phrase, the Camino provides . The infrastructure itself becomes part of the expe...

Camino Compostela and a Day in Santiago de Compostela

Image
  “Some paths call softly.  Others shout.  Listen close – the right one often whispers.” Santiago de Compostela Although we had arrived in Santiago de Compostela five days earlier at the end of our long journey along the Via de la Plata and Camino Sanabrés, we had not lingered. Instead, we continued walking westward on the Camino Finisterre to Muxía before returning once more to Santiago. It was only now, back in the city, that we allowed ourselves the space to bring this pilgrimage to a close - attending the Pilgrim Mass, collecting our Compostelas, and beginning the slow transition from being pilgrims on the way to travellers preparing to return home. Pilgrim Mass in Santiago de Compostela We woke at 5 AM with the intention of attending the early morning Pilgrim Mass at the Cathedral of Santiago . Stepping out into the still-dark streets of the historic quarter, we found the city hushed under low clouds, a touch of rain, and fog that seemed to blur the stone towers a...